Ask The Expert: Can your skin get used to a skincare product?

In short, your skin does not build an immunity to skincare products over time. Initially, the results of using new skincare products may be more obvious, but as time progresses, these effects become harder to notice. This is not because the product has lost its effectiveness, but because the degree of improvement of your skin has plateaued.

There are exceptions, however, like with prescription retinoids, where with continued usage, you tend to develop fewer side effects like dryness. One of the effects of retinoids is increasing skin turnover. When you first use it, the renewal of skin cells is accompanied by production of inflammatory cells in the skin, which lead to redness and dryness.

With time, the skin barrier is repaired and the skin thickness is restored, therefore you experience less of such symptoms.

Factors influencing product efficacy

One crucial factor is understanding how to store the product to prevent its degradation. And efficacy might decrease as the product nears its shelf life too.

Different products have biochemical properties that determines how it should be stored. For vitamin C, oxidation occurs with light exposure. For other products, heat exposure can break down of the active ingredients which render them ineffective.

Individual characteristics, such as lifestyle and hormonal changes, can influence skincare efficacy too. For instance, hormonal shifts during pregnancy affect skin hydration.

The dynamic nature of skin

The state of your skin should always dictate your skincare needs. Continuous usage helps maintain the response, but therapeutic ingredients may induce intrinsic skin changes. Topical products typically retain effectiveness over time. Yet, when used together, active substances may interact and reduce efficacy.

Skincare needs to change with time and age. Re-evaluating these needs ensures your skincare evolves accordingly.

Watch for signs that your skin is signalling the need for change. For instance, experiencing skin dryness when travelling to colder, drier climates should prompt you to reach for a richer moisturiser. Look and listen to these cues signifying it's time to re-evaluate what you put on your skin.

Professional guidance vs self-diagnosis

It’s pivotal to understand your skin type and avoid trends. And remember, a dermatologist can provide an assessment and a comprehensive skincare strategy if you encounter skin issues that are serious or that do not go away on its own.

The concept of skin “getting used to” a product oversimplifies the complex dynamic relationship between your skin, the environment and many other external and internal factors. As a rule of thumb, consider your skin's evolving needs and the different nature and efficacy of products. Adapt your skincare routine accordingly, maintain consistency, and stay attuned to your skin's cues to maintain healthy, happy skin.

Dr Kok Wai Leong is a dermatologist at StarMed Specialist Centre.