A day in the life of... Soh Hui Shan, the youngest female lead pastry chef at Wakuda Marina Bay Sands

At just 29, Soh Hui Shan is the youngest female chef to head a pastry programme at Marina Bay Sands. As the lead pastry chef at Wakuda Singapore, she leads a team of three, bringing her unique and innovative take on desserts to one of Singapore’s most celebrated fine dining establishments.

Her journey began at 13, when she first discovered her passion for baking through YouTube videos. This self-taught curiosity led her to enrol at At-Sunrice GlobalChef Academy before honing her craft alongside culinary greats such as Andre Chiang and Al-Mohamed Matin at Restaurant Zen and Le Matin Patisserie. She later became the head pastry chef at the one-Michelin-starred Willow, before venturing into her own omakase dessert concept, Catkin by Huishan. Her artistry has since been showcased at esteemed events like Tatler’s Off Menu Luxe and the President’s Annual Diplomatic Reception in 2024.

While pastry is often seen as a delicate craft, the world behind each plated dessert is one of discipline, leadership, and an unrelenting pursuit of perfection. In an industry where women have long been underrepresented in leadership, Hui Shan’s rise signals a shift, paving the way for more aspiring female chefs.

In this interview, she takes us inside her world at Wakuda, shares her philosophy on balancing artistry with precision, and reflects on the future of women in the culinary industry.

Walk us through a typical day in your life at Wakuda. How do you balance technical precision with creativity in your work?

A typical day at Wakuda revolves around running both lunch and dinner services while simultaneously preparing for the next. I usually start work around noon, by which time orders have already started coming in.

My team and I rotate between prep work and service – preparation includes making ice cream and crafting various dessert components, while service involves plating and final touches. Unlike other sections of the kitchen, the pastry team operates differently since not every guest will order dessert. We have an unspoken rule within the team – whoever is available takes on either prep or service to ensure a seamless flow.

Pastry is a delicate balance between science and creativity. Understanding the chemistry behind each technique and recipe is crucial when it comes to innovation. I’ve always believed in taking calculated risks, and I’m not afraid to experiment with new combinations. One example is the Wakuda Millefeuille. I was inspired by Chef Tetsuya’s favourite fruit, banana, and wanted to create a dessert that spotlighted its flavours while incorporating Japanese ingredients. I experimented with Saikyo Miso, a low-salt, sweet-tasting white miso from Kyoto, to add depth and complexity. We also age fresh bananas in-house until they reach peak sweetness and intensity. That natural richness is what makes the banana gelato in this dessert stand out. It’s a perfect example of how precision – understanding ingredient transformation – meets creativity in crafting a unique yet harmonious flavour profile.

What are some of the biggest challenges behind the scenes, and how do you approach leadership in the kitchen?

One aspect that often goes unseen is the mental load behind the scenes. The pressure of running service is something I take on willingly because I hold myself to exceptionally high standards. I’m a perfectionist, which means every detail, from the texture of an ice cream to the final garnish on a plated dessert, has to be just right. While this means that the pressure can get intense, there’s nothing more rewarding than seeing my vision come to life and witnessing the delight on guests’ faces when they taste my creations.

In the past, my perfectionist nature made my leadership style strict and demanding. While that works for some, I’ve come to appreciate that not everyone thrives under pressure, and creativity can be stifled in that environment. Now, I prioritise creating a space where innovation and high performance go hand in hand. I encourage my team to experiment freely and R&D their ideas, and we hold regular team taste tests to refine flavours and techniques together.

At the same time, structure is important. When I was working independently, I could afford to be more unpredictable – if inspiration struck, I’d just go for it. But as a leader, I see the value in having SOPs and procedures to ensure alignment and provide guidance for junior team members. Leadership is an ongoing evolution, but I firmly believe in the phrase, “you don’t know what you don’t know”. There’s always something to learn from the people around you, and I’m grateful for a team that brings fresh perspectives and helps me grow as a leader.

The kitchen is often a high-pressure, male-dominated environment. What were the biggest hurdles you faced breaking into the industry?

The kitchen is a tough environment, but it’s even tougher for women. It’s not a nurturing space – you won’t find sugar-coating here. When I first started, being a young female chef meant having to fight gender biases while proving my capabilities. Those experiences shaped my resilience, but I also find it important to break the cycle. Now that I lead a team, I make it a point to ensure that our environment is one where biases aren’t enabled, and where everyone – regardless of gender or seniority – can voice their ideas freely.

One of my toughest hurdles was during my early days in the kitchen. After an especially difficult service, I was criticised quite harshly by my mentor. It was an intense moment that made me question whether this was the right career path for me. But I realised the criticism came from a place of tough love – my mentor wanted me to push my limits and see my full potential. Once I shifted my mindset, I became more resilient, and it reaffirmed my commitment to this craft.

You are the youngest female lead pastry chef at Wakuda Marina Bay Sands. How do you see your role shaping opportunities for more women in the industry?

We need to confidently lead and occupy the spaces we deserve in this industry. I hope that by leading by example, I can encourage more women to boldly pursue their ambitions and stay true to their vision. It’s about showing that success in fine dining isn’t limited by gender – it’s about skill, dedication, and perseverance.

I also believe in fostering a culture of support. The challenges women face in the industry won’t disappear overnight, but creating spaces where they feel empowered, heard, and given equal opportunities is a step in the right direction. At Wakuda, I aim to cultivate that mindset, ensuring that every team member – regardless of background – has the chance to grow, contribute, and thrive.

Who are the women who inspired you in your career, and what advice would you give to aspiring female chefs?

Janice Wong was a major inspiration when I first started pastry school. Her visionary approach to desserts reinforced the importance of pushing boundaries and staying true to one’s creative identity. She constantly challenges conventions – experimenting with unexpected flavours, textures, and artistic techniques to transform desserts into immersive experiences.

She continues to inspire me today, particularly in how she stays true to herself and isn’t swayed by trends or external expectations. From her, I’ve learned to trust my instincts, experiment boldly, and stay authentic to my craft.

For aspiring female chefs, my biggest piece of advice is: Don’t be afraid to fail. Every setback is a learning opportunity that makes you stronger and more resilient. Growth comes from constantly challenging yourself and refining your craft through grit and experience. You won’t always have the answers, but you’ll learn the most by doing.