Don’t call Singapore fashion boring
With its emphasis on clean lines and comfort, the Singapore woman’s uniform is a fashion formula that may seem unexciting at first. However, it works for our increasingly hot and humid weather, which is why brands built around this aesthetic are thriving.
By Karen Tee -
Many jokes have been made about the “SG uniform” of the Singapore man. You know exactly what it is – the ubiquitous Uniqlo Airism cotton oversized T-shirt paired with shorts and flip-flops.
It has become so commonplace that even Uniqlo makes #ifyouknowyouknow references to this SG uniform in its promotional materials, sometimes even launching Singapore-exclusive colourways of this baggy tee for the local market.
Yet, while we may poke fun at the predictability of men’s fashion, the same could also be said of the typical Singapore woman’s style, which critics might describe as cookie-cutter and – gasp – boring!
From white sneakers paired with flowy midi shift dresses to loose sleeveless tops tucked into high-waisted wide-legged culottes or trousers, the aesthetic seems uniform, and the colour palette rarely strays from pastels, neutrals and soft earth tones. Still, it is not hard to see why this practical look has endured, given Singapore’s tropical climate and the national preference for functionality.
Womenswear labels that have perfected this “algorithm” such as In Good Company, Rye, Our Second Nature and Sabrina Goh have demonstrated staying power over the years, even in Singapore’s relatively small retail market.
“The typical Singapore female ‘uniform’ is simple and unassuming, with a strong focus on practicality. There is an appreciation for contemporary trends, but the overall style remains grounded in functionality,” says Sven Tan, co-founder and creative director of local sartorial stalwart In Good Company, which was launched in 2012. Over the years, it has carved out a distinctive niche with designs that combine functionality with elegance, such as its tailored shorts and relaxed trousers.
Love, Bonito, one of Singapore’s longest running fashion labels, originally started as a blogshop and has over the years arguably helped to popularise the oft-replicated Singapore female silhouette. The brand counts shell tops, maxi skirts and tailored straight to wide-legged pants among its bestsellers.
“Culturally, we are a rather conservative country where blending in is sometimes better than standing out in the crowd. Compared to many of our neighbouring South-east Asian countries, occasion dressing or having a ‘unique’ personality and style may not be at the forefront of local customers’ minds,” muses Jon Goh, design manager of Love, Bonito.
Other brands like Good Addition, Klarra, and Something To Hold have also found their footing by catering to this well-established style formula .Beatrice Tan, founder of womenswear label Klarra, which launched its flagship boutique at Ion Orchard earlier this year, says her design philosophy is to create pieces that fit seamlessly into daily life, while blending in comfort, versatility and functionality.
“Our goal is to ensure that each piece accommodates their busy and on-the-go lifestyles, making dressing up effortless, while instilling a sense of confidence,” says Beatrice, noting that loose, flowy silhouettes like A-line skirts and shift dresses, as well as lightweight pieces such as cardigans, are favoured among her clientele.
Likewise, Andrea Chong, co-founder of Good Addition, describes her label as one that offers “elevated essentials”, instead of catering to global fashion trends that tend to favour “less practical, purely aesthetic design elements”. Andrea says Good Addition’s focus leans towards fuss-free and functional details like pockets and clasps that Singapore women gravitate towards. This is why its best-selling designs are apparel made with breathable fabrics such as cotton poplin and linen blends, and designed with adjustable features like its long-sleeved signature shirt, which has a side button so it can be worn in different ways.
Certainly, there is no doubt this formula works like a charm in Singapore – but is it holding back individuality and creativity in expression?
What seems to be missing for many is the element of personal styling. From personal observation, it feels like outside of special occasions, many Singapore women aren’t too fussed about adding some visual interest to their everyday looks – short of toting the latest “It” handbag around town. Yet, whether it is a pop of bold lipstick, eye-catching jewellery or statement footwear, the finishing touches can work wonders to elevate an outfit.
Stylist CK Koo suggests that the lack of personal styling may stem from a deeper disengagement. He says: “People might not have the inclination to develop their own style, perhaps because they are focused on other aspects of life, or have little knowledge of what ‘style’ really is.”
Yet, it does not take much to introduce a point of view, even to a pared-down outfit. According to CK, understanding one’s body is the key to improving personal style. “Learn what works for your body type, and choose outfits that elevate one’s body shape and proportion, while complementing your skin tone.” For instance, a straight cut shift dress can be belted at the waist for a shapelier silhouette – regardless of one’s dress size.
For those who are inclined to learn more about personal styling, online platforms like Masterclass offer lessons on personal styling and fashion conducted by stylists including Tan France and Karla Welch. In Singapore, stylists like CK also offer personal consultations, which range from $150 to $300 per hour, depending on the client’s needs.
CK goes on to emphasise that understated dressing does not have to be boring – for instance the Scandi-chic fashion aesthetic tends to feature streamlined, fuss-free silhouettes, but are certainly not visually boring.
Noting that even the busiest woman can jazz up her wardrobe with small touches that will take just a few extra seconds, he adds: “When you dress in a minimalist style, the next step is to incorporate accessories, or perhaps choose a pair of shoes that elevates your look. These little elements take a simple outfit to the next level, and can work wonders to boost one’s self-confidence.”
Attention to detail
Several of Singapore’s design-forward brands are already leading the charge by incorporating subtle details that convey a sleek, effortless aesthetic that does not look mass produced.
One such favourite is Rye. Established in 2016, it is known for its nuanced design elements, such as oversized pleated sheer shirts or boxy muscle T-shirts with a split hem for versatility in styling.
Founder and head of design Bessie Ye says: “We play with textures, experiment with unexpected details, and reimagine classic silhouettes with a modern sensibility.”
For instance, button-up shirts are designed with oversized cuffs, and dresses are constructed with details like darts and panels for a sculptural silhouette. Says Bessie: “It is a delicate balance between the familiar and the new, a constant evolution that honours the essence of what our customers love, while inviting them to explore new horizons of style.”
Sven adds that materiality, such as the use of seersucker fabrics that offer versatility and durability, plays an essential role in adding dimension to the pieces. Unexpected pairings like shorts with a jacket also create opportunities for unique looks that go beyond predictable outfit combinations.
He elaborates: “Our design philosophy revolves around simplicity and refinement, avoiding unnecessary complexity. I aim to create a balance between timeless relevance and a fresh perspective, often through innovative fabric choices, new proportions, or unexpected cut techniques.”
This is why he has an alternative perspective to the common critique that Singapore fashion is formulaic. “Singapore style is definitely more laid-back, but I would not consider Singapore fashion boring,” he states.
“The tropical climate makes it more challenging to pull off chic layering, but there are certainly many Singaporeans who dress stylishly. As a cosmopolitan and well-travelled nation, we often see people getting creative with their personal style.”