Don’t just buy vintage jewellery blindly, we teach you how to invest wisely

A piece of jewellery is considered vintage if it’s at least 20 years old, but less than 100 years old. Anything more than a century old is considered antique. If these pieces are well looked after, they can last many more lifetimes, and be passed down generation after generation as family heirlooms. They often carry a rich history and story, which can add sentimental value and interest for collectors. Each piece is a conversation starter and reflects the era it comes from.

Other than nostalgia, vintage jewellery can hold significant value because many of the best pieces are set with rare, untreated gemstones and diamonds from old mines that are now depleted, such as Golconda diamonds, Burmese rubies, Kashmir sapphires, and Colombian Muzo emeralds.

“Appraisal values for unsigned vintage pieces typically reflect only the intrinsic value of the materials rather than accounting for the man-hours and retail markups of newly made pieces. This means you could acquire something exceptional at a fraction of the retail cost,” shares Brenda Kang, owner of Revival Jewels, who has more than 25 years of experience in the jewellery world

Most vintage pieces were handmade with traditional techniques and higher quality materials, which result in durability and a more luxurious feel. In terms of materials, different eras offer distinct advantages. Platinum from the 1920s and yellow gold from the 1960s to 1980s are prime examples.

“During these periods, precious metals were more abundant and used generously in jewellery designs, resulting in substantial and durable pieces. In contrast, many modern designs tend to use much less metal to reduce costs, often compromising on weight and feel,” says Brenda.

How can one build a tasteful collection of vintage jewellery? It requires a lot of learning instead of just going with your gut feeling. Start by learning about the styles of different eras, and history of makers and popular brands such as Van Cleef & Arpels, Cartier, Tiffany & Co, Bvlgari and Buccellati, says Echo Wang, owner of Echo Vintage. Seek out trustworthy dealers or auction houses such as Christie’s, Bonhams and Sotheby’s.

“It takes time, research and lots of luck to get the pieces on your wish list, because they are not things that are readily available and that you can simply go to a mall to buy – this truly makes you appreciate your pieces more,” says Jennifer Banse, founder of Eye of the Cat Jewellery.

When buying vintage jewellery, all the experts agree on checking the condition and authenticity of the jewellery. “If the piece has missing gemstones, they would be difficult to replace as antique pieces would have older cut stones with patina. These would be difficult and expensive to replace,” says Jennifer.

Buying vintage jewellery does not need to be done through traditional ways. “Believe it or not, one of my favourite places to buy antique and vintage jewellery is Instagram, where I buy from reputable dealers and sellers, many whom I’m now friends with. Instagram has made the world smaller, and the antique and vintage jewellery community is so supportive and close-knit,” shares Jennifer.

To ensure that you spend your hard-earned money on a piece of authentic vintage jewellery, remember this tip from Brenda: “Always check that the jeweller or dealer you are buying from has a 100 per cent money back guarantee – just in case you find out later that it is not authentic.”