An epic 2-week trip in Japan which included a 22-hour ferry ride from Hokkaido to Kyoto

Japan reported record-breaking snowfall this winter season due to La Niña conditions - a weather phenomenon known to bring colder temperatures and heavier snowfall. 

Hokkaido, home to some of the most world-famous Japanese ski resorts like Niseko, benefits significantly from La Niña conditions as it will enhance snowfall levels so ski enthusiasts can expect an abundance of powder for an unparalleled, powder skiing experience. 

Lucky (and unlucky, read about that below) for us, our first stop was Niseko and we were checked in for a week of skiing. So, the heavy snowfall was definitely a bonus given that we were there in early December (snowfall around this period is usually less in previous years) just before the actual ski season starts - around mid-December.

We’ve never skied in Japan before and of course if it was your first time, you would want it to be in Niseko as its famously known for “Japow” as I have just learned - which means “Japan powder” as fresh snow in Hokkaido is said to be of the finest quality. Booking.com’s Gen. Voyage! research on intergenerational travel reveals that 52% of Singaporean families value bonding as the top benefit of multi-gen trips, and skiing together in Niseko truly delivered on that front. The thrill of mastering the slopes created shared moments that we’ll be reminiscing about for years.

Hokkaido for first-timers

It could be a little overwhelming planning for a ski trip in Niseko as I have learned. Hokkaido is the main city and flights usually fly into the main airport which is the New Chitose Airport. From there you would need to book an airport transfer to Niseko which is about a 2-hour ride. 

It’s a lot to coordinate but if you have the Booking.com app, it would be a seamless way to book all your trips through their familiar, easy-to-use website or mobile app - which is what I did. I booked our flights, airport transfer, hotel stays and attractions thanks to Booking.com’s Connected Trip vision - a one-stop solution for all travel-related needs, from package trips to flights and attractions, and beyond. This made planning effortless – something that’s crucial when travelling with family, as 1 in 3 (32%) of Singapore-based travellers indicated that managing everyone’s needs is a challenge when on intergenerational trips.

Did you know that over 60% of travellers book their flights before they book a stay? Booking.com is now live in over 55 countries with flights to all major airports worldwide. So now, you can book your flights, hotel stays  from hotel, apartment or bed and breakfast, to attractions as well as airport transfers all on one platform. 

Our main stop was Niseko, but we got to explore another city in Hokkaido which is Otaru (more on that later) as well as Kutchan, a small town very close to Niseko to celebrate our 18th year anniversary with a a delicious omakase dinner at Sushi Hanayoshi.

As it’s our first time in Niseko, we were not too sure where to stay that would fit a family of four - we have a pair of 12-year old boy-girl twins - but we knew we wanted an apartment-style lodging with a kitchen and 2 bedrooms. 

After shortlisting a few places, we decided to eventually settle on Setsu Niseko. It was one of the best decisions I made for this trip, and we loved it so much, the twins are hoping to stay there next time we come back to Niseko.

A minimalist haven in snow heaven 

We stumbled upon Setsu Niseko when searching for apartment-styled hotels in Niseko on Booking.com. This award-winning luxury resort is actually owned by Singapore’s leading luxury developer SC Global Developments. It’s the perfect spot if you’re there to hit the slopes especially if you’re with kids as it has ski lockers, a 5-minute hotel shuttle to the ski lifts and a well-known on-property ski/snowboard rental shop Rhythm Japan (you can also book your ski/snowboard instructors here). 

The property is located at the base of Grand Hirafu - the largest ski resort in Niseko United, made up of 4 mountains: Annupuri, Niseko Village, Grand Hirafu and Hanazono - all of which are easily accessible on a 10 to 15 minute bus ride from Setsu. The terrain at Grand Hirafu ranges from beginner friendly to advanced.  

We stayed in a two-bedroom Village Suite with Tatami, overlooking the Hirafu village. It was very spacious with thoughtful storage for our ski gear and a generous winter coat wardrobe at the entrance of the room. It feels more like an apartment than a regular room as it comes equipped with a dishwasher and oven including a full-size fridge. Our favourite spot to hang out as a family is the tatami balcony area with full sized windows overlooking the village and admiring the magical snowfall every single day.  

Setsu’s dining options are, if you ask me, one of the best in Niseko. It includes Tempura Araki, the sister restaurant of Sapporo’s two-Michelin-starred restaurant of the same name, Sushi Kato Inori, which serves market-fresh sushi and its own branch of the celebrated ramen chain Afuri.

The five-star resort is also home to Niseko’s largest spa and wellness centres, Rikka Spa which has natural onsen hot springs (all guests get a complimentary visit and it’s a must after a long day on the slopes), fitness gym and yoga studio. 

Conveniently located in the buzzy Hirafu district which is along the main street (Route 343), there is a Lawson right opposite the hotel, which we frequented every day. Its central location means we can walk to Hidden Stand, a cosy cafe, many restaurants and bars and the twins favourite spot which is a little donut truck specialising in glazed caramel and chocolate dipped mini donuts.

From Otaru to Maizuru: An unforgettable ferry experience 

Our journey in Hokkaido took us to another city in Hokkaido - a small port town called Otaru, where you will find super fresh and very affordable seafood like snow crab and uni. We took a 2-hour train ride from Kutchan, Niseko to Otaru and checked in at the Alphabed Inn, which I also booked on Booking.com.

For all my bookings, I made use of my Genius Loyalty Programme. This is part of Booking.com’s free loyalty programme where travellers can enjoy a lifetime of discounts and travel rewards on hundreds of thousands of stays and rental cars worldwide.

As we were scheduled to board the ferry to Kyoto at 8pm that day, we decided to check in at the Alphabed Inn for a bit to rest in Otaru as we arrived slightly past noon. 

The decision to take the Shin Nihonkai ferry to Kyoto was a decision I made as I thought it was an interesting way to explore Japan - without rushing on a Shinkansen or getting on a flight. I would still recommend it if you would like to see Japan in a less chaotic and more tranquil way, but don’t make the same mistake I did and book a ferry in winter. 

As I mentioned earlier, Japan, and Hokkaido in particular, was hit with very heavy snowfall and snowstorms very early on in December and unfortunately, during that time we had to board the ferry to Kyoto. 

Not only was our ferry delayed for 6 hours (no thanks to La Niña), we were also very sea sick as the water was very choppy and the winds were heavy and howling. It was a good call to book a hotel room so we could at least rest at the hotel instead of the ferry terminal. 

22 hours later (we slept most it - about 19 hours), we reached our destination at Maizuru port in Kyoto. It was about 3am and we still had to hop on another 2-hour car ride which thankfully our host Natsuki from Kyomachiya Suites in Kyoto had booked in advance for us. 

Our first experience in a Ryokan

I have been to Japan countless times but I have never stayed in a ryokan (a traditional Japanese inn) before. And since we were in Kyoto as a family, it would be the perfect place to check into. 

I researched on Booking.com for recommendations on ryokans and after I scoured all the reviews, we decided on the traditional machiya townhouse, Kyomachiya Suite Rikyu. 

I was drawn to it firstly dues to its Japandi minimalist design and a spacious bedroom for our family of four. It also comes with a fully equipped kitchen, a large dining table, microwave, refrigerator, and a coffeemaker. The private bathroom is always stocked with towels and toiletries, which is replenished on alternate days. 

It’s location is also a winner as it’s right smack (but in a private lane) in Kyoto’s Higashiyama district. It’s a stone’s throw from must-see spots like Yasaka Shrine and Kiyomizu-dera Temple which was definitely a bonus. Not to mention a delicious matcha cafe just around the corner and a dozen eateries around it as well.

If you’re planning for a day trip to Osaka, which we did, the JR Kyoto Station is just a 15-minute taxi ride from the ryokan.  

But hands down, why we love our stay here is because of the hospitable owner Natsuki who planned not just our 3am taxi ride from Maizuru port, she also made sure the driver walked us right in front of the door to our ryokan. She leaves thoughtful greetings every other day when she cleans up the place and provides you with a suggested itinerary on what to do in Kyoto. 

It was such a wonderful experience staying at the Kyomachiya Suite Rikyu and we will definitely be back again.