Let's be honest, quiet luxury never left

Less is always more

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One of the key takeaways from the recent Fall/Winter 2023 shows that wrapped up earlier this month was probably a sense of austerity; many designers put extra emphasis on tailoring (see the excellent Saint Laurent and Alexander McQueen shows, for example) and there was a general air of stripped back frivolity (check out Prada’s stand-out homage to the uniforms of essential workers).

It may not come as a surprise that buyers and editors alike are noting the shift towards a more grown-up, pared back sensibility. Fashion is fickle-minded; it might simply be time to move on from the exuberant logomania that dominated the second half of the 2010s, thanks to key players like Alessandro Michele, who shook up the scene with his eclectic, vintage-tinged aesthetic.

But with Michele’s exit from Gucci late last year, the brand is reportedly gearing up to move towards a more restrained, timeless direction. Then, there’s also savant Phoebe Philo’s much-awaited return this September with her own eponymous label, which in all likelihood, will further see the pendulum swinging away from Instagram-first, logo-centric dressing. And beyond the fashion industry itself, larger forces like inflation and the ongoing Ukraine war are all likely factors in contributing to a more sombre climate.

This shirt from Bottega Veneta’s Spring/Summer 2023 collection is made from leather coated with 12 layers of dye to make it look like a casual flannel piece, perfectly exemplifying quiet luxury’s discreet, IYKYK ethos. Credit: Bottega Veneta

This shirt from Bottega Veneta’s Spring/Summer 2023 collection is made from leather coated with 12 layers of dye to make it look like a casual flannel piece, perfectly exemplifying quiet luxury’s discreet, IYKYK ethos. Credit: Bottega Veneta

So! Back to quiet luxury – what is it actually? Minimalism is one part of it but it’s more of a way of living – a preference towards well-made, discrete design that don’t scream their presence. Think things that carry a whiff of IYKYK (if you know you know) energy about them; it could be an outwardly simple but luxurious cashmere sweater from The Row, or perhaps Bottega Veneta’s hyper artisanal shirt that’s made to look like casual flannel but is actually crafted from leather.

Basically, elevated staples that will stand the test of time and very likely to be free of obvious signifiers. And if you’re looking to shop that sensibility now, bags are the easiest way to opt in – we’ve rounded up some choice options for you below.

Dior Key medium calfskin shoulder bag, $7,200, Dior

Credit: Dior
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A new design that debuted in Dior‘s Spring/Summer 2023 collection, the archive-inspired Key is a minimalist framed purse with softly rounded curves and slim double handles designed to be reminiscent of those carried by women in the 1950s; its name is a reference to its key‐shaped clasp adorned with hardware in the form of the maison’s “CD” logo.

Available at Dior boutiques.

Paseo XL nappa calfskin tote, $5,450, Loewe

Credit: Loewe
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Another SS23 debut, the Paseo continues Loewe‘s winning streak of bags that come with an organic, unconventional silhouette. The Spanish maison had a bag series called Aire in the mid 2000s and this design provided the launchpad for the origami-esque Paseo – a distinctly elliptical silhouette which sees two pleats gathering the material (supple calfskin) towards its tubular leather handles, while Loewe’s signature Flamenco knots provide a styling flourish at both ends.


Available at Loewe boutiques.



Della Cavalleria leather crossbody bag, price unavailable, Hermes

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Hermes has many iconic bags but here’s an underrated gem; the Della Cavalleria’s striking clasp borrows its unique shape from the equestrian side of the maison’s history, the horse bit. The bag also sports an unusual curved bottom to accommodate the clasp’s design.

Available at Hermes boutiques.

Paper medium leather tote, $3,650, Bottega Veneta

Credit: Bottega Veneta
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Simply named Paper, Bottega Veneta creative director Matthieu Blazy continues his approach of elevating everyday objects into something rarefied; in this case, a seemingly ordinary paper bag, but crafted with the maison’s excellent leathers.

Available at Bottega Veneta boutiques.




Leather hobo bag, $4,150, Miu Miu

Credit: Miu Miu
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With all things Y2K making a comeback, the slouchy hobo bags of that era is likely to be no exception. This sizeable Miu Miu tote (it measures 39 x 38.5 cm) comes with a subtle embossed logo and is perfect for days when you need to cram in a lot while on the move.

Available at Miu Miu boutiques.

The Row Sofia leather top-handle bag, US$4,854.90 (S$6,447), www.net-a-porter.com

Credit: Net-a-Porter
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How can any story on quiet luxury be without The Row? The Olsen sisters have stuck to their guns of an almost monastic vision of luxury since they founded the brand in 2006, which may be why it’s one of the very few celebrity-founded brands that is actually well respected in the industry and continues to be a bestseller in top department stores. This Sofia bag perfectly illustrates the brand’s ethos of well-designed simplicity.





Lemaire Carlos leather shoulder bag, €$2,945 (S$4,225), www.mytheresa.com

Credit: MyTheresa
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The croissant-shaped bags of French designer Christophe Lemaire’s eponymous label have been gaining much traction in recent years but the designer also has more elevated seasonal designs. Take the Carlos bag – the result of a collaboration with Chilean artist Carlos Penafiel. The latter crafted the bag by casting the leather in a custom-made shell-shaped metal press, before waxing it by hand to achieve a transparent sheen similar to the waxy texture of a candle.





Prisma leather shoulder, $3,690, Ferragamo

Credit: Ferragamo
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The SS23 season saw several creative directors making their debuts, and Ferragamo’s Maximilian Davies arguably made the strongest impression – a key piece from his first collection is this Prisma bag, a sensuous-meets-architectural design that exemplifies the 27-year-old’s sleek vision for the house.

Available at Ferragamo boutiques.

This article was originally published in Female.










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