How the Gucci Horsebit became an It Bag for a new generation

Almost seven decades since its debut, Gucci’s Horsebit shoulder bag still remains a luxury bag full of youthful elegance

By Imran Jalal - 8 May 2023

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Mention the ‘50s and most will immediately associate the era with a new look in fashion. The uber-feminine and sophisticated aesthetic of that period repudiated the austerity brought about by the two World Wars that occurred between the ’20s and ’40s. But a kind of fashion schism was brewing as the decade came to an end, one which would be marked by a more rebellious and relaxed spirit that took inspiration from youth culture and the streets.

While bags of the ‘50s were generally characterised by ladylike and prim top-handle styles, women’s appetite for more practical shoulder bags (read: no hands!) started to take root during this time. Florentine luxury house Gucci had already found commercial success with its roomy crescent-shaped hobo bag called Constance that could be carried easily under the arms to free the wearer’s movements. (The bag will later be renamed the Jackie after its most famous fan Jackie O.)

The archival Horsebit shoulder bag from 1955 shows the namesake equestrian detail taking pride of place on the flap. Credit: Gucci

But Gucci didn’t stop there when it came to embracing this newfound relaxed attitude when it comes to bag designs. After all, the ’50s was a period of growing consumer demand and rapid expansion for the leather goods company. In 1951, it opened its standalone boutique in Milan and followed that with the unveiling of its inaugural American store in New York City two years later.

In 1955, Gucci released a dome-shaped flap bag with an adjustable strap. The bag was christened the Horsebit, after the distinctive double-ring horse bit and bar design that was co-opted from the detail found on the brand’s loafers. (FYI, the Horsebit holds the honour of the first Gucci bag to sport the hardware). The choice of placing this equestrian motif on the bag resonated well with Gucci’s affluent customers who mostly had taken up horse riding as a popular hobby during this period.

While the Horsebit fell into obscurity in later years, it was reintroduced into the Gucci lexicon in a big way for the Cruise 2020 season. The bag received a contemporary makeover and remade as a rectangular top-flap bag with a refreshed name, Gucci Horsebit 1955, as a nod to the year it was launched. The updated bag now features two large compartments with an open pocket and a zip pocket that can easily hold everyday essentials such as mobile phones, lipsticks and card cases.

Flash forward to Spring/Summer 2023, and the Gucci Horsebit 1955 collection now spans three sizes – mini, small and medium. There is also a variety of silhouettes that range from the rectangular saddle shape to the trendy East-West style to a charming ladylike top-handle style. Then, there is the array of materials you can opt for, such as solid-coloured leathers to the iconic Supreme GG canvas. For something more luxurious, there is the option of getting the Gucci Horsebit 1955 crafted with precious leathers such as lizard, croco and snake skins.

Gen Z idols such as (clockwise from top) musician-actress Halle Bailey; Hanni of NewJeans; actress Julia Garner; and Thai actress Davika Hoorne have made the Gucci Horsebit 1955 a part of their off-duty wardrobe. Credit: Gucci

Almost seven decades after its launch, the timeless appeal of the Gucci Horsebit 1955 still speaks to a young generation of luxury bag consumers. To wit, Gucci has roped three young icons of Generation Z to front the bag’s latest campaign. The trio comprises Hanni of Korean pop phenomenon NewJeans; actress Julia Garner; and singer-songwriter and The Little Mermaid star Halle Bailey. They are lensed by photography duo Mert & Alas for a series of intimate portraits that showcase the “handbag through dynamic poses and vibrant energy”.

Ready to start your own Gucci Horsebit 1955 rotation? We suss out some fun options below.