With Chinese New Year coming up, many of us still might not have our outfits, or other preparations, in order. The cheongsam remains the CNY clothing of choice for many. It’s a marker for Chinese culture, flatters the feminine silhouette and is appropriate for formal settings.
But you might not want to join the crowd. Being quirky, you might want to harken back to other types of traditional Chinese dresses. You’re in luck: China has a storied history chock full of myriad styles, each with its own story. Here's how you can be extra cultured this coming Lunar New Year!
Hanfu, literally meaning Han clothing, is an umbrella term referring to the myriad styles of traditional Chinese clothing worn in the dynasties ruled by Han Chinese. That can be contrasted with other popular traditional Chinese clothing like cheongsams, which originated from long Manchu dresses worn during the Qing dynasty (1644-1911).
The Hanfu movement originated in China in 2003. Gaining popularity amongst millennials, the trend found itself spreading worldwide—including in Singapore. Calling themselves tongpao (同袍, meaning comrade but also functioning as a pun since 袍 means robe), these enthusiasts gather in Hanfu associations and hold events. Established in 2011, the Singapore Han Cultural Society has over 2k members, and has organised events like a Hanfu Festival in Chinatown.
With a history spanning over a thousand years, Hanfu comprises clothes from every dynasty—even the Qing Dynasty (as women were permitted to continue wearing Han clothing, unlike the men). While there are purists who aim for historical accuracy, there are also those who strive for modern interpretations of Hanfu designs.
"Wearing Hanfu is not just flaunting the design," says tongpao Tan Kerng Ngee. "Rather, it's the essence of wearing it and integrating it into our daily lives."
She suggests sourcing Hanfu from designers in China via Taobao. "I only source for affordable ones", she notes.
If you're not so keen on getting your hands dirty in the online marketplace, you can also choose from a wide range of designs, both classical and contemporary, from Hanfu Story. With express shipping, you can still get your Hanfu within a week.
If you want to #supportlocal, there are tailors offering modern Hanfu in Singapore (though not in time for Chinese New Year), like Accent. There is also Another Day, a photo studio specialising in Hanfu shoots, which could be a fun Chinese New Year activity with your loved ones.
Compared to cheongsams which are traditionally one-piece, samfus feature an upper garment and loose trousers—usually made from the same fabric to lend a sense of outfit cohesion. Samfus were made from a range of materials, from the common hemp to the luxurious silk.
The samfu was popular in the 1800s in Singapore, worn by coolies, domestic servants and samsui women alike. Even in the 1960s, due to the modesty and comfort it offered, it remained a popular garment of choice for work.
While it might be perceived as clothing worn by grandmothers, there’s a recent resurgence as demand for the samfu’s nostalgic look has increased.
You can get your own from Dear Samfu, which aims to create sustainable samfus for the contemporary wardrobe. For Singaporean purchases, they ship for free within 3-7 days.
The Tang jacket, or tangzhuang, is a recent development. Resembling the Manchu magua, the jackets were first worn during the 2001 Asia-Pacific Economic Cooperation forum held in China, with a desire to reflect both tradition and modernity in the same outfit. The wide coverage soon sparked a craze for the outfit, and it remained a staple of formal wear after the fad died down. It even made a return for the 2014 edition of the forum.
Luxury Hong Kong fashion house Shanghai Tang is well-known for their designs that rejuvenate Chinese heritage, and their line-up includes tang jackets for both men and women. Their average delivery time is 7 days, so you will want to send in your orders with a bit more time to spare.