Why do we have such a love-hate relationship with beauty filters?

Known for her interesting social media feed that discusses aesthetic and beauty topics, Dr Rachel Ho of La Clinic recently posted a video of herself with a TikTok aging filter, making her look more than 30 years older.

“I thought it would be fun to share the video and explain the signs of aging depicted by the filter. I took the opportunity to discuss lifestyle and skincare tips to delay these signs of aging.

“The interesting thing I noticed was that compared to most other popular filters on TikTok that made users look younger or more beautiful with makeup trends, this filter was a more realistic depiction of how one might look when older,” she says.

Has Dr Ho tested the AI chatbots for skin related advice herself? “Yes, I have tested Chat GPT out in this respect and I find that the quality of answers differs on the type and complexity of the question you input,” she affirms.

For the uninitiated, ChatGPT and similar chatbots use machine learning algorithms and huge amounts of data to generate text responses according to questions you input. ChatGPT is open about acknowledging that its data is sourced up to 2021 and that it is limited on newer research and information available after that year.

It is also worth noting that these chatbots produce different responses based on the specific context, phrasing, and quality of input provided by each user.

“When it comes to skincare advice, if the answers to simple or common questions available on the web are factual and accurate, then the answers provided by these chatbots is likely to be accurate,” says Dr Ho.

She cautions that when the questions become more complex or specialised, and when there is a lack of information and data available, then these chatbots may be found lacking. “For example, for information about clinical trials, new skincare ingredients and technology, I would refer to journals for my research and not chatbots due to these limitations.”

Stay away from the serious stuff, basically. It’s a bit like self-diagnosing a health concern by consulting Google – not a good idea. And if you have a skin issue that is a cause for concern, you should make an appointment to see a doctor as soon as possible.

Beauty assistance at your fingertips

I recently had an engaging chat with Chat GPT about the best skincare ingredients for my current skin issues. I started by introducing myself, sharing my gender, age and main skin concerns – oily skin, large pores and adult acne.

It accurately listed the types of ingredients I should use for my skin type – salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide to help control oil production and prevent breakouts, regular exfoliation, spot treatments and clay masks to deal with angry zits and minimise pores – all of which have been recommended to me by dermatologists before.

Similar to Chat GPT, instant messaging app Snapchat is the latest social media platform to offer AI-powered chatbot My AI, a tool that dispenses beauty advice and assistance. Launched earlier this year, it’s designed to simulate a friendly conversation: All you need to do is to type in your question, and it’ll generate informative and conversational responses that are almost akin to chatting with a knowledgeable friend.

While Snapchat is a relatively new player in the beauty game, makeup enthusiasts would perhaps be more familiar with TikTok as a hub to discover new trends and techniques. With its vast collection of creative filters, the platform offers exciting ways to experiment with different makeup looks.

Some of the latest TikTok filters include the Golden Ratio Brows, which determines your ideal brow shape by drawing symmetrical lines based on your eye and nose position. The Cream Contour – developed with Fenty Beauty – directs you on where to apply contour, concealer, and highlighter to enhance your face shape, while the Eyeliner filter virtually “applies” your ideal winged eyeliner, making it a breeze to follow and practice your eyeliner skills.

Content creators and beauty experts weigh in

Do makeup filters offer practical help? We asked makeup artist Larry Yeo who explains, "They can provide a general guideline on how to do your makeup yourself, especially if you are a beginner. The eyeliner filter can serve as a good basis to pick up if you want to practise your eyelining skills. But do note that they may not take into account your individual eye shape, the depth of your eye sockets, or the folds of your eyelids."

He doesn’t recommend the Golden Ratio Brows filter though, sharing that this brow ratio method can be too generic and might not suit everyone’s face.

“[When shaping the brows] one needs to take into account the entire face shape and size and even their hairline, and not just base it on the filter’s dotted lines that go from the nose to the corners of the eyes. The face should be looked at holistically to get the proportions of everything right.”

25-year-old content creator Sahur Saleim also cautions that beauty filters may encourage unrealistic beauty standards. “It could be potentially damaging for young people who grow up thinking the filtered or AI version of themself is what they should look like.”

“For me, the use of digital beauty filters wasn’t great for my self-esteem when I was younger. I started going unfiltered on my socials a few years ago, and it has been really great for my mental health and self image.”

On the other hand, makeup artist, model and body positivity advocate Mary Victor says that the beauty filters on TikTok have been “pretty accurate” on her. She shares that she was never a fan of using blushers until she tried the TikTok Persona Blush 101 that prompted her to apply blusher on the high planes of the face (instead of the apples of her cheeks).

“That completely shifted my perspective on blushes. Applying it with the guidance of the filter, my face was instantly lifted, giving me a fresher, younger look. I believe that for someone new to makeup, it can act like a digital makeup coach. It can give them a guide to begin practising and experimenting with makeup,” she says.

AI’s psychological impact

On the subject of AI-driven beauty filters and their potential impact on mental health, Dr Annabelle Chow, Clinical Psychologist at Annabelle Psychology, emphasises that exposure to highly altered images through AI filters can indeed influence individuals' self-esteem and body image.

“These filters, which often promote unrealistic beauty standards normalised on social media, may contribute to feelings of inadequacy and lower self-esteem, particularly when users constantly compare themselves to these idealised images,” she says.

Dr Chow suggests that it's crucial to focus on how users consume such AI-altered images, highlighting behaviours such as prolonged viewing of one's selfies or seeking approval from others through excessive posting.

While AI filters are a part of modern beauty culture, Dr Chow encourages open discussions about their potential impact on mental health within the realm of beauty and technology.

She also recommends strategies for individuals who may feel pressured to conform to digitally enhanced beauty standards, such as limiting exposure to such content and practising positive self-talk.

Ultimately, she underscores the importance of maintaining a healthy self-image that extends beyond physical appearance and suggests that AI filters can serve as tools for experimentation rather than rigid standards.