Your ultimate guide to J-beauty

For a long time now, much of the beauty industry’s spotlight has been trained on K-beauty and its array of novel, buzzy products, like liquid-powder lipsticks and snail mucin masks. While its popularity shows no signs of waning, one of the pioneers of Asian beauty is making a discreet return from the sidelines to prominence.

Since a few years ago, Japanese skincare and makeup, or J-beauty, has been gaining on its Korean counterparts in both popularity and visibility. In China, demand for J-beauty is on the rise despite the pandemic. According to the Japan External Trade Organization, China’s imports of Japanese cosmetics in 2020 jumped over 30 per cent from the previous year to S$5.8 billion – surpassing the S$4.5 billion from South Korea.

In Singapore, Japanese brands have been steadily making their entrances in the market, or are expanding their operations. Meeth, for instance, is a new luxury skincare outfit based on mineral-rich deep sea water from Hokkaido. Last month, it opened its first brick-and-mortar outlet in Plaza Singapura.

Late in 2020, skincare brand MT Metatron – said to be a favourite among doctors and Japanese celebrities – opened its first flagship store in Singapore at Isetan Scotts. And so did high-end skincare line Est.

Recently, Sunohada, a new brand designed specially for sensitive skin, was also launched in Singapore. And health and beauty retailer Welcia-BHG recently announced its plans to bring in more Japanese brands across all beauty categories, seeing it as the best way to spur growth. Some of the brands brought in by the department store include Clé de Peau Beauté, Shiseido, DECORTÉ, Kosé and POLA. 

According to a spokesperson of the beauty retailer, "We noticed that a growing number of consumers are seeking more good quality, effective and efficient skincare products to fit into their time-starved lifestyles. J-Beauty’s philosophy of ‘Less is more’ addresses this need. By growing this product segment, BHG hopes to be the one-stop destination to be introduced to J-Beauty brands that offer a minimalistic yet comprehensive skincare routine for any of the customers."

THE MANY DRAWS OF J-BEAUTY

There are many reasons as to why K-beauty took the beauty scene by storm: imaginative and enticing textures, ingenious formulas like cushion foundation and sleeping masks, IG-worthy packaging loaded with millennial appeal, and cultural cachet from the seemingly unstoppable hallyu wave.

It also has the edge in manufacturing speed, translating the latest trends to products on shelves way ahead of the competition.

LESS IS MORE

J-beauty, on the other hand, holds a different appeal. Among its key features is a minimalist, pared- down approach – a stark contrast to K-beauty’s fondness for layering on multiple products (remember the famous 10-step routine?).

Amanda Ng, assistant brand manager of Japanese makeup brand Heroine Make, says: “J-beauty is timeless and fuss-free. Its philosophy has always been less is more.” This means simpler, more efficient routines using a few selected products with effective formulas – think gentle but thorough cleansing, ample hydration, and strong sun protection. In other words, quality over quantity.

She adds: “Even when it comes to makeup, J-beauty places the emphasis on looking natural. Nothing too over-the-top, just enough to get one through the day confidently, especially in the new normal.”

Indeed, J-beauty’s minimalism dovetails nicely with the changes in lifestyles and habits brought on by the Covid-19 pandemic. With work- from-home and stay-in days now a way of life, consumers are shifting towards shorter beauty regimens and more straightforward products. In fact, Globaldata’s 2020 Market Pulse Consumer Survey for the Asia- Pacific region found that 75 per cent of consumers consider simplicity of product formulation or packaging to be the top priority, or just as important when purchasing.

CUTTING-EDGE TECHNOLOGY

Other attributes that J-beauty is known for? Advanced technology, high quality and gentleness. It needs to be all that, in order to satisfy its sophisticated and savvy domestic customers. Nakanishi Masatoshi, managing director of MT Metatron, feels that these are factors which give Japanese products an edge.

“Until now, mainstream cosmetics development largely emphasised the tactile sensation of products. But in the future, products not only have to feel good, they must also offer functionality – people must be able to really feel their effects. I think that it will be a more important requirement,” he says.

These strengths also put J-beauty in a good position to address all sorts of skin concerns, including an increasingly common skin problem among women – sensitivity.

(Read also "Sensitive Skin? Try Bakuchiol Skincare For Retinol-Like Results")

Rie Wakatsuki, marketing manager of Japanese conglomerate Lion Corporation, says: “Over the past few years, our research has unearthed a vast demand for daily skincare products dealing with sensitive skin – a rising concern due to lifestyle, diet and environmental changes. Women are looking for products that are effective yet gentle enough for daily usage, which is why we developed Sunohada – a range of cleansing and moisturising products that dry, sensitive skin can use in a simple two-step routine.”

She attributes the company’s ability to pinpoint and address consumers’ needs to two things – extensive research and Japanese formulation. “We are not as trend- led as K-beauty. With Sunohada, the focus is more on helping to manage sensitive skin through ongoing care,” she explains.

MOCHI SKIN

A key aim in J-beauty is mochi skin which, like the Japanese rice cake, is soft, bouncy and smooth to the touch. The Korean equivalent is “chok chok”, a description for skin that’s moist and fresh, with dewy luminosity. Which one you plump for really depends on your skin needs, habits, likings, and possibly time.

(Read also "Mirror Skin Is The K-Beauty Trend That’s Hot Right Now")

“Whether you choose a J-beauty or K-beauty routine boils down to personal preference. Given today’s busy lifestyle, use fuss-free products in the day to care for your skin and achieve your preferred daily makeup look. And at night, [choose] something with multiple benefits that suits your needs. But if you have more time to spare, introduce a few more steps to pamper yourself – your skin will thank you for it,” says Amanda.

Masatoshi doesn’t think Japanese and Korean cosmetics are mutually exclusive. After all, there’s no reason why you can’t have both in your beauty regimen.

“From now on, many new high- quality cosmetics products will be produced all around the Asean circle. The entire Asian beauty market is expected to become very active,” he says.

ON THE RISE

Reacquaint yourself with J-beauty through these hot-sellers and new launches.

Sunohada, $14.90-$24.90

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Created for sensitive skin that’s dry and itchy, this skincare line uses the power of enzymes and a unique plant- based ingredient, MTO, to provide round-the-clock comfort and care. The adult line boasts four products: a mist, non-foaming wash, low- foaming wash, and a soothing lotion. All can be used on the face and body, and are free of irritants like alcohol, fragrance and parabens.

MT Metatron Facial Foaming Wash, $80.20

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The brand’s top performer in Singapore, this facial wash lathers up a thick, luxurious pillow of foam without stripping skin of moisture. An ultra-gentle amino acids-based formula that works even for dry and sensitive skin, it also boasts firming, brightening and soothing benefits.

Cle de Peau Beaute The Serum, $270-$380

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This cult classic is powered by an illuminating complex EX that contains luxurious elements such as hydrating platinum gold silk essence, clarifying Japanese pearl and smoothing theanine (found in green tea).

Lits Moist Lotion, $21.90

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Formulated by one of Japan’s leading dermatologist-approved skincare brands, this refreshing lotion promises to increase skin’s moisture level fourfold within an hour of use, giving you smoother skin with tightened pores.

D Program Balance Care Lotion, $40.90, and Emulsion, $46.90

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This moisturiser is tailored for combination sensitive skin. It helps to strengthen the barrier function and restore skin’s water-oil balance to prevent clogged pores. Also available in variants for other kinds of sensitive skin types, including those that are acne- prone, dry, and dull and uneven.

Heroine Make Long Up Super Waterproof Mascara, $21.90

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This upgraded mascara not only has longer fibres to create dramatic length, but also maintains lift and curl all day. It’s also loaded with six serum ingredients to moisturise, protect and encourage lash growth.

Kanebo Melty Feel Wear, $70

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This powder foundation enhances the beauty of bare skin without a heavy, cakey finish, thanks to an innovative formula containing semi-transparent layers of gel that capture light.

This story was first published in the March 2022 issue of Her World.