Ratianah Tahir: The kebaya has a rich history and identity that should be preserved and celebrated

Nestled in the heart of Kampong Glam is Kebaya by Ratianah. The colourful boutique shows off the nostalgic, eclectic and vibrant history of the traditional outfit. Previously a homemaker, Ratianah learnt how to sew in her free time. Fast forward two decades later, Ratianah is a household name in the kebaya business, offering a wide range of styles, from ready-to-wear to custom made.

What role do local craftsmanship and traditional skills play in shaping a unique Singaporean fashion identity?

I believe the biggest way to promote these practices would be via education and awareness. For example, we are truly honoured to have been part of a community focus group with National Heritage Board during the inscription of the Kebaya onto the Unesco Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.

Our first multi-nomination, done hand-in-hand with five countries (Indonesia, Brunei Darussalam, Malaysia, Singapore and Thailand), was such a success, and reaffirmed the importance of the kebaya as an iconic symbol for our heritage and practices in the region. Our focus was “what ties us stronger together, not what divides”. 

How can Singapore effectively market and promote its fashion scene internationally, differentiating itself from others? 

The beauty of Singapore is the melting pot and strong influence of different cultures, as well  as being a global hub for innovation, suited for creativity! This is especially important for us as a heritage brand. Another aspect would be to take advantage of Singapore as a technological driven society, offering easy digital access to consumers from all over the world.

That can be seen with our Orkids doll, a kebaya-wearing doll that combines the physical-tactile touch suited for a child, and a digital game element for a more holistic and interactive experience.

So far, reception for the dolls and its accompanying virtual game has been very heart-warming. I am very appreciative of the support by so many, especially when they bring their Orkids doll on holidays and adventures all around the world! The dolls have travelled from Paris and Milan to Japan and New Zealand, further than I could ever imagine, and I am so grateful for that. 

How would you cultivate a unique and thriving fashion ecosystem in Singapore?

If I had unlimited resources, a kebaya for everyone! It’s not simply a costume, but an intangible, iconic outfit that represents all of us here – a thread that binds us together. I would also like to have a school to teach everyone about the beauty of traditional wear. I would highly encourage design institutions to perhaps include traditional craftsmanship and heritage-building lessons. It doesn’t necessarily have to be related to fashion courses, as design inspiration can come from anywhere!

We should be proud of our Asian heritage and incorporate elements of the very aspect that defines and makes our identity unique. I believe it should even start from the young, who would be the future wearers of this beautiful craft. Inspire, educate, and build a good foundation, so that no matter how far they fly, they are grounded and proud of their regional identity. We should honour not just the past, but the present, and especially the future wearers and bearers of  our culture. 

Brought to you in partnership with Singtel, the inspiring Innovators featured in our SG60 issue are women who are driving Singapore’s progress through their bold choices and achievements. With their stories of resilience, reinvention and selflessness, we hope to inspire and empower the next generation of women to take charge of their paths and turn possibilities into reality. Singtel wishes all women a Happy International Women’s Day and Happy SG60.

To learn more about the 60 women who have shaped Singapore as we know it today, click here.